The air we breathe is essential to our health and well-being. It is important to keep the air in our homes clean and free from pollutants. One way to ensure clean air in your home is to regularly clean your air filters. In this article, we will discuss the importance of cleaning air filters in your home and how it can benefit you and your family.

What are air filters?

Air filters are devices that are installed in heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) systems to trap dust, dirt, and other pollutants. These filters help keep the air in your home clean by preventing these particles from circulating in the air.

Why is it important to clean air filters?

Over time, air filters become clogged with dirt and dust, reducing their effectiveness. A dirty air filter can cause your HVAC system to work harder than it needs to, leading to higher energy bills and potentially costly repairs. Moreover, dirty air filters can also negatively impact your health.

Health benefits of clean air filters

Clean air filters can help improve the air quality in your home, which is particularly important for people who suffer from allergies, asthma, or other respiratory conditions. Dust and other pollutants can aggravate these conditions, leading to symptoms such as coughing, sneezing, and difficulty breathing.

In addition, clean air filters can also reduce the risk of illnesses caused by bacteria and viruses. When air filters are dirty, they can become breeding grounds for these microorganisms, which can then circulate in the air and potentially cause illness.

How often should you change air filters?

The frequency with which you should change your air filters depends on several factors, including the type of filter you have, the level of pollutants in your home, and how often you use your HVAC system. As a general rule, it is recommended to change your air filters at least once every three months. However, if you have pets, smoke, or live in an area with high levels of pollution, you may need to change your filters more frequently.

What are MERV ratings?

MERV (Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value) ratings are used to measure the effectiveness of air filters in removing particles from the air. MERV ratings range from 1 to 20 and measure the ability of an air filter to capture particles of different sizes. A higher MERV rating means that the filter is able to capture smaller particles and more of them. The higher the MERV rating, the more effective the filter is at removing particles. The average

MERV ratings explained

• MERV 1-4: These are low-efficiency filters that are typically used in residential settings to protect the HVAC system from larger particles such as dust and pollen.
• MERV 5-8: These filters are capable of capturing smaller particles such as mold spores and pet dander. They are commonly used in residential settings, but may not be effective for those with allergies or respiratory conditions.
• MERV 9-12: These filters are capable of capturing even smaller particles such as lead dust and milled flour. They are commonly used in commercial and industrial settings, but can also be used in residential settings for those with allergies or respiratory conditions.
• MERV 13-16: These filters are highly efficient and can capture particles as small as bacteria and tobacco smoke. They are commonly used in hospitals and other medical settings, as well as in residential settings for those with severe allergies or respiratory conditions.
• MERV 17-20: These filters are extremely efficient and can capture particles as small as viruses. They are typically used in clean rooms and other specialized settings.

Choosing the right MERV rating

When choosing an air filter, it is important to consider your specific needs. For most residential settings, a MERV rating of 8-13 is sufficient. However, if you or someone in your household has allergies or respiratory conditions, a higher MERV rating may be necessary. It is important to note that higher MERV rated filters may also restrict airflow, leading to higher energy bills and potentially costly HVAC repairs.

Should I just get the highest MERV rating?

No. Like trying to breathe through a straw, having a higher MERV rating means having a higher restriction level. The higher the MERV rating, the harder your HVAC equipment will to work. Our inspectors change out their air filters to highest MERV ratings only during times when there is smoke in the air or pollen counts are high. Higher MERV rated filters may restrict airflow, leading to higher energy bills and potentially costly HVAC repairs.

Conclusion

Cleaning your air filters is a simple and cost-effective way to improve the air quality in your home and protect your health. By regularly cleaning your filters, you can reduce the risk of allergies, respiratory conditions, and illnesses caused by bacteria and viruses. So, make sure to add this task to your regular home maintenance routine and breathe easier knowing you have clean air in your home.

FAQs

1. Can dirty air filters affect my energy bills? Yes, a dirty air filter can cause your HVAC system to work harder than it needs to, leading to higher energy bills.
2. How often should I clean my air filters? It is recommended to clean your air filters at least once every three months. However, if you have pets, smoke, or live in an area with high levels of pollution, you may need to clean your filters more frequently.
3. Can dirty air filters make me sick? Yes, when air filters are dirty, they can become breeding grounds for bacteria and viruses, which can then circulate in the air and potentially cause illness.
4. Is it difficult to clean air filters? No, cleaning air filters is a relatively simple process that can be done at home using a vacuum or brush and water.
5. What are the benefits of clean air filters? Clean air filters can help improve the air quality in your home, reducing the risk of allergies, respiratory conditions, and illnesses caused by bacteria

We provide answers on whether or not to caulk the toilet base to the floor as we look into the pros and cons of this hotly debated issue.

Q: I am buying a house and the home inspection report identified missing caulking around the base of the toilet.  My agent says they heard from a plumber that the caulking is unnecessary, and might hide leaks. Does the toilet need caulking or not?

A: If you look at many of the conversations in online DIY and plumbers’ chat rooms, you are not the only one who is confused.  The debate over whether or not to caulk around toilet bases can even been rather heated at times.  Many people’s reasoning is based on tradition and personal opinion, which is fine but not much help.

The improved versatility and durability of modern caulking products rarely makes its way into the discussion.  Also missing from the many discussions is clarification about some of the problems that might occur, and how to solve them.  We have looked into the pros and cons in detail to help people find the right answers.

The most frequent disagreement is over leak detection. 

The main reason people give for not caulking around toilet bases is that they feel the caulking could hide leaks.  If the leak is undiscovered, then the resulting damage could become severe. Without caulk (as the theory goes), the leaking water would flow out freely and be noticed right away.

While that might be true if there was a sudden and major breakage in a pipe or a complete failure of the wax ring, that scenario rarely happens.  Overwhelmingly, most leaks are small and gradual, and caused by a degraded wax ring which is in turn caused by a rocking loose toilet.  Leaks at the base of the toilet are caused by improper installation of the wax ring, a loose toilet, or a crack in the porcelain.  Then, the leaks typically do not spread out onto the bathroom floor, but instead soak down into the underlying structure. Water follows the path of least resistance, downward, and the leaks are usually noticed from the space below the toilet when looking up from a lower-level room or sub-area.  Leaks under the tub, for example, are often found in the same way. In apartments, it is common for the tenant below to be the one who first notices a problem.

So, this argument for not caulking has many flaws, as it is based upon unrealistic circumstances which fail to consider actual realistic leak behaviors.  On the other side of the discussion are a number of real-world reasons why caulking around the toilet has positive benefits.

Caulk prevents other sources of water from seeping under the toilet.

The same seal that is alleged to prevent a leak from being discovered is actually beneficial because it prevents “external” water from seeping under the toilet. Water splashed out of a shower, bathtub, or overflowing toilet is unable to seep under the toilet if that toilet is properly sealed to the floor.

Without caulking, any external water that may creep under the toilet could remain there for a long time.  The water may begin to stagnate and provide a breeding ground for harmful organism growth (like mold or fungus). The application of caulk to the toilet prevents this from happening, and arguably the bathroom is healthier as a result.

Caulking around the toilet adds stability on uneven floors.

Improperly installed wax rings and loose toilets are the #1 cause of leaks.  Nuts and bolts are usually used to secure the toilet base to the floor flange.  But if the floor is uneven, then the toilet might tend to rock back and forth as it works itself loose. A rocking toilet is an improper installation that is not only frustrating and possibly noisy, but that condition can also be a source of trouble for distorting the wax ring and even the durability of the toilet’s porcelain structure. A rocking toilet should be shimmed and caulked because it will eventually damage or break the wax seal, resulting in waste water leaks.  But over-tightening the nuts is also risky because you can easily crack the porcelain.

Using caulking to seal the toilet to the floor adds both the advantage of cleanliness and it provides a layer of evenly distributed padding to compensate for that uneven floor.  Once fully cured, a good quality caulk will provide and effective and durable cushioning to stabilize a toilet.

Caulking, but leaving a gap at the rear of the toilet.

How often do you stoop down to look behind your toilet?  Leaking water can wick upwards in some materials (see image). How might your wall become water damaged and have dry rot or other organism growth if water leaks under the wall’s base molding because you never looked to find (in theory), a small trickle of water?  Some plumbers insist that if you must caulk, then leave a gap in the caulking at the rear. But that is the worst location to leave a gap, and is just asking for costly water damage and wood deterioration inside your wall.  If anything, if ever there was a good reason to leave a gap, then at the front of the toilet would be the most logical place despite its unsightly appearance. 

A properly installed and seated toilet, with a quality new wax ring, will not leak. Do not leave any gap in the caulking.

Plumbing codes require caulking a toilet at the floor.

In California, you are required to follow the California Plumbing Code which is based upon the Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC) as developed by the International Association of Plumbing and Mechanical Officials (IAPMO).  Section 402.2 Joints of the UPC requires “Where a fixture comes in contact with the wall or floor, the joint between the fixture and the wall or floor shall be made watertight.”  A toilet is a fixture.  Caulking (or some other watertight sealant) around the base of the toilet is required.  This requirement applies to both new builds and remodeling (i.e. the installation of a new toilet fixture). Leaving a gap in the caulking fails to meet the “watertight” requirement of this section.

Qualified and licensed plumbing professionals generally have the required knowledge to know caulking or some other watertight sealant is beneficial and required around the base of the toilet where it meets the floor.  It is also a great idea to caulk around the edges and bottom of any molding that is installed where the wall meets the floor.  DIY installers and unlicensed laborers might be tempted to skip these important steps, but the resulting damage from an improper installation could quickly become very costly.  Also, if you later decide you want to sell the property, installation that are not up to current building code might put off potential buyers, or at the least make them more cautious in their consideration of the property.

It looks better and helps prevent unpleasant odors.

Popular opinion is that a clean, white caulk line provides a neat and professional finish. An unfinished gap might hide spiders or insects, and allow harmful water to collect.

Caulking also prevents unpleasant odors that can sometimes escape from the plumbing system and out under the bottom of the toilet. The problem will only be made worse if mold or fungus is allowed to grow under there.

Caulking the joint takes just a few minutes and has a wide range of benefits. With a properly installed toilet and new quality wax ring, those benefits far outweigh the unlikely event of a theoretical random leak being discovered more quickly.

We hope this article provides you with useful information about whether you should caulk around the base of a toilet. SacPro home inspectors stay up to date on training and industry requirements. SacPro home inspection reports provide the most recent information about this issue and other matters.

SacPro Home Inspections is committed to always providing our clients with excellent service. Our ASHI certified home inspectors have the professional experience to help you if you are buying or selling a home. We service the greater Sacramento area including Antelope, Arden Park, Auburn, Arbuckle, Carmichael, Citrus Heights, Davis, Dixon, East Sacramento, El Dorado Hills, Elk Grove, Elverta, Fair Oaks, Folsom, Garden of the Gods, Granite Bay, Natomas, Orangevale, Rancho Cordova, Rancho Murieta, Rio Vista, Rocklin, Rosemont, Roseville, Sacramento, Sierra Oaks, West Sacramento, Williams, Winters, and Woodland areas. We would be pleased to help you with obtaining a top-notch home inspection report.

But no-one actually reads the fine print to figure out it’s a gimmick. The guarantees all have legal fine print that makes it nearly impossible for any home buyer to actually collect.

Pages of legal restrictions end up putting the homebuyer upside down financially if they ever try to file a claim. Here are some of the restrictions:
1) the homebuyer’s claim is rejected if the Seller failed to disclose the deficiency being used by the homebuyer to file the claim;
2) the homebuyer must first pay for repairs out of their own pocket to fix the issue being used to file the claim;
3) the homebuyer must then list the home for sale on the open market and at the same purchase price, plus pay a 6% commission out of their own pocket, and allowing other people to buy the home before being eligible for the company to step-in to purchase;
4) the homebuyer (who now is the Seller) must pay all closing costs out of their own pocket;
5) the company will hire its own private appraiser and then reject the homebuyer/seller’s claim if the appraisal comes in lower than selling price;
6) any disputes must be filed in court within that company’s home state (which is not California). Imagine the costs of hiring an out-of-state attorney to represent you, and then expecting that court to rule against one of its own local businesses versus the California plaintiff;
7) only visible deficiencies qualify from a very small list of eligible items (but not any material defects), if the problem is found and submit submitted within 90 days of close of escrow (COE).

In the end, if a claim is successful, the customer ends up losing thousands of dollars from the guarantee.

At SacPro Home Inspections we never play those games. We never trick homebuyers into thinking they are eligible for some smoke and mirrors promise… and any reasonable person would rightfully wonder about the type of home inspectors who would play those games.

Our business is built on trust and great home inspections.

Why do we do this? Safety of our clients.

Our home inspectors have found the electrical system scans to be so useful in identifying hidden issues that we decided it was ethically appropriate to automatically include this service for free.

Yes, it takes us a little longer. But these electrical scans finds things that would not otherwise be found through an average home inspection.

Plus, the benefits to our customers are tremendous. So the business decision was an easy one. SacPro Home Inspection builds long lasting relationships with our clients one great home inspection at a time.

What do the other home inspectors do? They plug in a cheap GFCI Tester. But GFCI outlets can be intentionally wired to fake a “correct” reading on the cheap testers. The cheap GFCI testers fail to identify “bootleg” grounds, measure what the computer chip in the GFCI is doing, how fast the GFCI circuit interrupter responds, or if the GFCI still responds within proper specifications.

If you see your home inspector using one of these cheap GFCI testers, smack it out of their hand. You will be doing them (and yourself) a favor.

What do our electrical scans find?

Our circuit analyzers measure:
1) Voltage Drop (Vd) under load
2) Amperage currently on the circuit (Get it? Current-ly… for Amperage. #ElecticalJokes)
3) True Root Mean Squared (RMS) sinusoidal wave quality of the electricity
4) Specific Voltage as measured between Hot and Neutral wires,
and the Neutral and Ground wires
5) Digital Frequency (Hertz) of the electrical supply
6) Impedance as effective resistance and opposition to alternative current
7) Trip time of a GFCI to determine leaked current between conductors
8) and more…

With our electrical scans we are able to tell if a GFCI outlet (electrical receptacle) is wired correctly and trips within a safe amount of time according to the manufacturer’s specifications. Because of this, during our home inspections we have been able to identify the need to replace GFCI outlets that would have appeared ‘normal’ using those terrible cheap GFCI testers. (Those GFCI outlets failed to provide the safety protection against electrocution that they were designed to provide.)

With our electrical scans we have been able to identify when there was high resistance on an electrical branch circuit. High resistance can result in excessive heat and a potential fire hazard. It turned out the home seller had performed DIY electrical modifications, using too long of a wire run using with wire gauge that was too thin, and had loose connections that were hidden from view. Because the wiring is hidden in the walls, that fire hazard would have been missed through a standard home inspection.

Who can say? Maybe a future fire caused by overheated and loose wiring was prevented as a result of us using our free electrical system scan.

The safety of our clients is of paramount importance. So now you see why we felt we feel compelled to include the electrical system scans with every home inspection. The decision was an easy one.

If you would like a great home inspection, then we welcome you to contact a team member at (916) 333-0540 or use our online reservation system. We would be pleased to provide you with an excellent home inspection!

A common thing we see during home inspections is the result of what happens when years of simple but forgotten maintenance turn into costly repairs. Each Fall, spending just 15 minutes per day with a little caulking here, some cleaning out gutters there, and removing moss from collecting on a roof all pay off quickly and are important to protecting the value of your home.

Without regular upkeep, your house can actually lose value over time. Poor maintenance adds up when the time comes to sell a house, and the home inspector writes you up for a decaying deck or water damage in the crawlspace.

Here is a helpful seasonal home maintenance checklist tailored to Sacramento’s weather conditions. Dedicate just 15 minutes per day to weatherizing your home, and you will  the preventative benefits will pay off.

Of course, if you truly don’t have the time to do it yourself, you aren’t sure about what to look for, or you just want a specialist to give your home a once-over, then SacPro Home Inspections offers a special $150 package that lasts up to 45 minutes reviewing what the outside of your home needs to get you ready for the winter.  Afterwards, we will walk you through what we have found, and discuss options.  We can also refer you to our trusted contractors for repairs.  Call (916) 333-0540 to schedule your appointment.

Sacramento: Gear up for wet weather

In the Pacific Northwest region, water damage is one of a homeowner’s biggest concerns. Keeping water away from wood, out of walls, and draining away from under foundations is extremely important.  

Most of the area’s rainfall happens between October and March, and according to The Weather Channel, Sacramento experiences 58 days of rain annually, adding about 19-20 inches of rain per year.

If you keep your house dry in all the right places, you can prevent mold and water damage.

Here are a few key areas to focus your attention.

Basic checklist:

• Trim your trees away from the house.
• Gently remove moss from the roof.
• Clean out the leaves, sticks, and debris from your gutters.
• Caulking, and more caulking
• Seal up decks, patios, and any wood surfaces exposed to the elements.

Trim all trees away from the house.

We like to start with recommending routine tree trimming, because keeping vegetative debris away from your roof makes the other recommendations and upkeep a little easier.  Trimming your trees also looks good for curb appeal. 

The yard is one of the first things agents look at before listing a house. But it’s about more than aesthetics.

Maintaining trees and shrubs also reduces storm and water damage. Think about wind, and a wood stick constantly rubbing against your roof or siding.  Trimming back foliage also allows more air to circulate so the exterior siding can properly dry. Tree branches should be trimmed away from all electrical, and remove dead debris that can blow off in windy conditions.

A professional tree trimmer can run between $200 to $350 per hour, depending.  So staying on top of this task will also reduce that bill if you need to call in a professional.  

Gently remove moss from the roof.

Moss needs wet and shady conditions to thrive.  As it spreads, it can lift your shingles, cause cracked shingles during the cold winter months, or even lead to mold. Then, when it rains, water can get inside your home and lead to more mold and water damage.

A tiny crack can cause big problems, so it is always a good idea to proactively get your roof inspected before the rainy season and make moss treatment a priority.

As soon as you begin to see moss, take action before it gets out of control.  Use a soft-bristle scrub brush and cleansers like Wet & Forget to remove and treat the area.

Remember, roofs are dangerous, and balancing a ladder against a roof isn’t for every homeowner.  Plus, improperly walking around on a roof can cause granules to come loose from asphalt shingles, crack roofing tiles, or otherwise damage the roof covering.  

There is a proper technique involved with this task, and often-times moss removal is a task better left to a professional roof cleaner.

Clean out the leaves, sticks, and debris from your gutters.

All of the systems in your house are integrated to shed water away from your home.  Think of your home as a large drainage system.  

So, in addition to creating bad curb appeal, clogged gutters undermine the drainage system by allowing dirty water to run down the exterior of your house rather than away from it.  Sometimes that water will penetrate your fascia board and even go into your walls, and the weight of all that water may pull the gutter away from the fascia board.

This improperly directed drainage water can cause mold growth and even put your home’s foundation and structure at risk.  Also, make sure your landscaping grades away from your foundation.

You can DIY your gutter cleaning with an extending ladder, rubber gloves, and plastic scoop. We have even seen hooked hose extensions that allow homeowners to flush gutter systems while still standing on the ground.

But, of course, this gets trickier if you have a two-story home and need to clean gutters on the second story.  If you need someone else to clean your gutters, then ask for a personal referral from your neighbors, or even post a request on Nextdoor for a recommendation.

Caulking, and more caulking

Technically we are talking about a “sealant”.  Caulking / sealant generally describes any waterproof material that fills and seals joints between building materials. It is used for both new construction and repairs.  But a sealant is typically more elastic and applied to areas which are more prone to contraction and expansion.

Water likes to seep into little cracks, and wood likes to absorb moisture.  Lack of airflow, slow evaporation, and natural bacteria in the environment makes the perfect circumstances for wood deterioration.

Now look around your home…  gaps between corner trim and fascia boards, wall coverings, and splits in wood provide plenty of opportunity for months of constantly moist wood.  Every gap is an opportunity for rot.

Sealant is inexpensive, easy to apply, and comes in a variety of types.  We recommend an exterior, paintable, and flexible waterproof polymer, such as GE’s paintable Silicone caulk for $9 at Home Depot.

Seal up decks, patios, and any wood surfaces exposed to the elements.

By now you have probably noticed a common theme:  prevent rotting wood.  And let’s face it, no one likes rotting wood.  So make sure outdoor decks are properly sealed. 

Note that anytime you power wash a wood patio or deck, it should be re-sealed within 3-5 days (but it also has to dry, so wait 48 to 72 hours to start the project.

Prime, dry, paint, dry, re-paint any exposed wood surfaces.  But first make sure the wood is dry before you seal it with primer.  A good primer coating helps the paint stick to the wood, and makes your paint job last longer.  You can paint a latex over oil based primer, but not the other way around.  You can also paint latex over latex.  But one type of paint most people overlook are alkyd paints.

Conventional alkyd paints dry by solvent evaporation and cure by oxidation in approximately five days to a hard, glossy finish that is simply unmatched by latex paints.  Think of alkyd paints as a mix between latex and oil based paints.  Alkyd paints are well-suited for wood trim, doors, cabinets and other high-use areas that require smooth durability.

This type of preventative maintenance will save you money in the long run.  

SacPro Home Inspections is committed to always providing our clients with outstanding service. Call (916) 333-0540 to speak with a representative.  

Our experienced home inspectors are thorough and have excellent communications skills. If you are buying or selling in Antelope, Arden Park, Auburn, Arbuckle, Carmichael, Citrus Heights, Davis, Dixon, East Sacramento, El Dorado Hills, Elk Grove, Elverta, Fair Oaks, Folsom, Garden of the Gods, Granite Bay, Natomas, Orangevale, Rancho Cordova, Rancho Murieta, Rio Vista, Rocklin, Rosemont, Roseville, Sacramento, Sierra Oaks, West Sacramento, Williams, Winters, and Woodland areas, then we can help!

In this fast-paced sellers’ market, our Pre-Offer Inspection service boosts buyer confidence when submitting strong offers.

Why did SacPro Home Inspections create this new service? Because top producing buyers agents told us they wanted help getting nervous buyers off of the fence and to assist them with writing the most competitive offers.

What is our Pre-Offer Inspection service? It is a brief analysis that is also known as a Showing Pre-Inspection or a Showing Analysis and is different from a traditional home inspection.

Instead, the analysis occurs during the showing to give potential buyers up to a 45 minute exploration of either a specific system (like electrical or plumbing), or it can be a mixed-system analysis of home before deciding to submit an offer.

As an added bonus, the price of the Pre-Offer Inspection will get 100% credited towards the price of a full home inspection through SacPro Home Inspections on the same house if your offer gets accepted and you proceed with the purchase.

For just $150.00, during the Pre-Offer Inspection our home inspectors will spend up to 45 minutes reviewing the home based upon what areas the home buyer wants to know about most, and then discuss the findings with the buyer and their real estate agent after the showing.

Since a 45 minutes appointment creates obvious time limitations, crawling under the house or up in the attic are not normally included in this service, due to time constraints. The Showing Analysis is not a home inspection and only applies client-selected portions of the Standards of Practice (SoP) based upon what specific systems the buyer chooses to have reviewed during the 45 minute appointment.

Contact us at (916) 333-0540 for more details or to schedule your Pre-Offer Inspection.

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Notice: The terms “check before you offer”, “showing pre-inspection”, “showing analysis”, and “showing inspection” are uniquely created and used in commerce by SacPro Home Inspections, Inc. pursuant to the Lanham Act, 15 U.S.C. §1127 et al. The price of the “Check Before You Offer” service is not transferable to other persons or other properties.

It is hiding, creeping, and eating away at your biggest investment.  It isn’t termites.  It isn’t critters.  It is water damage and dry rot.

Our Sacramento home inspections have found any home can be vulnerable to water leaks and flooding.  Dealing with water damage can be expensive and sometimes affect your health.

Sometimes water damage is immediately visible, like when the roof leaks and the ceiling drips.  But usually water damage builds up over time; and the organisms it carries are busy feeding on your wood and insulation.

The best defense is a good offense   Because, once water enters your home, it can be difficult to remove.

Some common examples of damage from water intrusion our house inspectors see are:
– Improperly installed and maintained stucco.
– Blockages or improperly sealed joints in condensation drain pipes for HVAC systems
– Window shutters where screwed or nails penetrate exterior siding
– Trim around doors and windows
– Butt joints for wood siding or engineered wood siding
– Mounts, fasteners, and drilled holes caused by improper installation of satellite dishes, cable, and phone lines.

Look at these 5 maintenance tips to help keep your house dry and your foundation strong.

1. Caulking & Sealing.  Everywhere something is installed or stuck to the exterior siding of your home, or penetrates your roof, is an opportunity for water intrusion and damage.

A vent.  A chimney.  A skylight.  Or anything (trim, siding, shutters, equipment) that is nailed, screwed, on or butts up against another object, is an opportunity for water intrusion when moisture is present.   Also, think about where the sprinklers hit the house, or when washing the car splashes water onto the house.  These all create opportunities for water damage.

Every year, before the rainy season, you should be up on a ladder inspecting metal flashing for damage, clearing out debris, and looking at flexible seals (caulking, rubberized seals), for cracks or other damage.

Seal up those trim pieces and butt joints with a paintable silicon based caulking.  Silicon caulking comes in many colors (or clear), and lasts for decades in harsh weather conditions.  You get what you pay for, so pay a little more to get high quality caulking.

Good quality exterior primer and paint are important.  In our experience as home inspectors, for our own projects we personally prefer Alkyd style paints as opposed latex / enamel paints.  Alkyd paints flow well and stand up to abuse like oil based paints and primers.  Alkyd paints can be thought of as a hybrid between oil-based and latex / enamel paints, with resins in it that dry durable and resistant to wear.  Alkyd paints are available at your local hardware store, so just ask.

2. Clean your gutters. It might seem obvious, but most people forget about gutters.  To properly work, gutters must be free of leaves, moss, nests and other debris. Clean your gutters regularly or they may could fill up and spill water over onto your eaves and fascia, down the sides and onto the foundation of your house instead of carrying water safely away.

3. Watch for signs of a leak. Sometimes pipes are stresses and joints spring a leak, or pipes decay and start dripping.  Did you know that cast iron drain /waste pipes in all homes 50+ years old are now past their service life, and may be leaking gray or brown water beneath your home?

Mold and termites seek out moist environments.  Identifying and promptly repairing potential water leaks, paying attention to any upticks in your water bill, listening for dripping sounds, and occasionally looking under your home at the plumbing, are well worth the effort.  Look for physical signs of trouble, like dark spots around pipes, edges of your windows, or ceiling stains.

You might also invest in a smart water leak sensor to detect hidden leaks and alert you when there’s an issue.

4. Avoid chemical drain cleaners.  Most homes have some form of metal drain pipe system (cash iron, galvanized steel).  Strong chemicals can erode your pipes and cause leaks.  Drain snakes are inexpensive, and easy to use.  They are effective, and better for your health and the environment. 

5. Insulate your pipes. Water expands when it freezes, sometimes bursting pipes.  But there are ways to avoid bursting pipes. If you leave faucets dripping to give the water a place to go, or cover outdoor spigots with foam shields, be sure to take action before freezing weather hits. 

Lastly, check your homeowners insurance.  In addition to these preventive actions, make sure you know what your policy covers in the event you do have to file a claim.

Have questions? Call our home inspectors today at SacPro Home Inspections (916) 333-0540.

Stucco walls coverings normally expand and contract.  When stucco covering ends at a door, window, or other dissimilar material, proper sealing of those joints is essential to prevent water intrusion.

Think of those joints in the same way as tiny cracks. Many people believe tiny cracks are “normal” for stucco. Cracks may be “normal”, but “normal” is not correct. “Normal” simply means “common”; and our home inspectors often time stucco in Sacramento is commonly installed incorrectly.

Damage to the structure’s wood framing and sheathing due to improperly installed stucco and water intrusion can cost tens of thousands of dollars years later.

New current standards require “Casing bead” to be used between stucco and all dissimilar materials.  Casing bead is made of galvanized metal or vinyl, and is used to terminate stucco against doors, windows and dissimilar materials so that proper caulking of all intersections, butt joints, ends and corners at time of installation.

For old stucco coverings, when upgrades occur for windows and doors, it is recommended client also consider installing casing bead where the stucco meets these dissimilar materials, and apply caulking to the joints.

Current standards now also call for control joints periodically located throughout stucco wall coverings.  The use and spacing of stucco control joints depend on several factors: type of materials, the orientation of the building, and the type of surface. 

When stucco is applied over concrete and masonry surfaces, control joints are only necessary where there is a change in material. 

When stucco is applied using metal lath, joint spacing should follow Portland Cement Plaster/Stucco Manual (EB049), and is based on ASTM C1063 – Standard Specification for the Installation of Lathing and Furring to Receive Interior and Exterior Portland-Cement Based Plaster requirements.

Generally, joint spacing should meet these criteria:

• Joint spacing should not be greater than 18 feet in any direction.
• No panel should exceed 144 sq. ft. on vertical applications.
• No panel should exceed 100 sq. ft. over curved or angular sections.
• No length-to-width ratio should exceed 2 ½ to 1 in any given panel.

Lath shall not run continuously through control joints.  Lath must be terminated and tied at each side of the control joint so the control joint is free to flex and move separate from the lath and stucco.

Buying a house? In Sacramento, SacPro Home Inspections helps to protect home buyers against expensive hidden surprises. Our highly trained and skilled home inspectors are proud members of both the California Real Estate Inspectors Association (CREIA) and the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI).

Here we will focus upon using ultraviolet light (UV) to in dealing with pathogens (viruses, bacteria, micro-organisms) as a possible home upgrade.

What little bugs are swirling about and growing in the air you breathe? Most of us spend a lot amount of time in our homes sleeping, bathing, eating, and recreating, the so quality of our air matters.

This is where proper air filtration and even air sanitation (like ultraviolet lighting in HVAC ducting) may be and option for you.

But does UV lighting actually work? What kind of UV light should you get? There are single bulb, double bulb, even 4 bulb models, with 30 watt, 36 watt, and 72 watt versions. Some are 24 volt DC, while others are 120 volts AC. There are also DIY versions.

It seems every HVAC company is pushing to sell you on their UV system. These companies all tell you to buy their system if you can afford it.

But our review of their systems leaves us questioning their claims, and the quality and effectiveness of many of their products.

First, what is an ultraviolet lighting system? And how does it connect to your HVAC system? What is needed for it to work reliably?

Ultraviolet light occurs naturally within the spectrum of sunlight, except we cannot see it with our naked eye. UV “radiation” is known to age our skin, cause skin cancer, cause cataracts, yellow the whites of our eyeballs, break down plastics, and fade pigments and dyes.

Fortunately, UV also kills viruses and bacteria if it is the right wavelength and the exposure time is long enough.

Scientists have known for decades that broad-spectrum germicidal UV light, which has varying wavelengths between 200 and 400 nanometers (nm), is highly effective at killing many bacteria and viruses by destroying the molecular bonds that hold their DNA together. This conventional UV light is routinely used to decontaminate surgical equipment, but is harmful to human tissue.

Explaining the Ultraviolet Spectrum
UV-C 100-280 nm (nanometers, or 0.000000001 meters long)
UV-B 280 – 320 nm
UV-A 320-400 nm
Useful Range: 200 – 320 nm disinfects air and surfaces, to varying degrees and safety. Example: 260 to 265 nm is ideal for killing E. coli.
Useless Range: 320 – 400 nm (blacklights and sun tan lamps) is ineffective.

The household UV light units for HVAC systems are most typically installed by cutting a hole through the sheet metal wall of the heat exchange coils of the HVAC system. This type of installation, if there is a good seal, makes sure you are not exposed to the light.

But what UV wavelength are the best one for killing novel corona viruses (MRSA, H1N1, H5N1, and others), as well as (stinky) bacteria?

According to Columbia University Irving Medical Center, 222 nm (far wave) wavelength is ideal for killing MRSA, H1N1, H5N1, and other influenza (“flu”) viruses, without the negative human tissue consequences of broad spectrum UV lights. Because these are safe for human tissue, they are now being installed in hospital overhead lighting systems.

But does 222 nm matter inside of an enclosed HVAC system where the light is hidden and air is rushing by? No. Most commercially available UV light systems are 253.7 (254) nm units at either 30 watt, 36 watt, or 72 watt bulb varieties.

The wattage of the bulbs matters because the amount of Energy required to kill the pathogens = amount of Power x Time [ E_(J) = P_(W)× t_(s) ]
So the higher the wattage, the less time will be required to kill the virus.

How much time is needed for UV light to kill viruses?
The research says at least 5 seconds for antibiotic resistant viruses, and often time as much as 2 minutes (Staphylococcus aureus and Enterococcus faecalis) Humidity also matters. The lower the humidity the better.

But when your HVAC system is circulating air, none of that air will be in front of any UV light system for even 5 seconds. So now what?

Here is what the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has to say about using ultraviolet lighting in HVAC systems:
“[T]ypical UVGI cleaners used in homes have limited effectiveness in killing bacteria and molds. Effective destruction of some viruses and most mold and bacterial spores usually requires much higher UV exposure than is provided in a typical home unit.” [Emphasis Added]

U.S. National Library of Medicine, National Institute for Health does have a write-up about a limited experiment with a very small control group. That study (of a 4 floor building) showed a measurable reduction in mold.

Always ask for written proof about viruses from these heating and cooling companies. These HVAC companies are claiming these products work for killing viruses and bacteria. In the laboratory UV lights do kill pathogens when the air is still. But what about fast moving air through a HVAC system?

Ask for independent verification based upon a published study before you spend hundreds of dollars (or in some cases thousands), to get a UV system installed in your HVAC system.

Your home is probably the largest investment you have. With that in mind, there are three things to justify when considering any home upgrade:
1) Cost – UV system cost $120 – $700 parts, plus the cost of labor for installation costs, plus ongoing bulb replacement costs each year.
2) Performance / Quality – Not known to work in a HVAC system application. Still awaiting evidence…
3) Return on investment (ROI) – None if it doesn’t work as promised.

Final Verdict? Fail
(Until we see evidence to support that it works in HVAC systems)

Electricity has the potential to cause great harm including death, and massive property damage.

If an electrical system is properly installed and not overloaded or physically abused, then your home’s electrical system will function properly for many decades.

Our home inspections have identified some amazingly dangerous electrical situations. Each year home electrical fires in the U.S. kill nearly 500 and injure another 2,300 Americans. Most of the electrical fires are caused by faulty installations (DIY homeowners) and abused electrical components.

It is true that some of these fires are in fact caused by electrical system failures and appliance defects. However, most fires are caused by misuse and poor maintenance of electrical appliances, incorrectly installed wiring, and overloaded circuits and extension cords.

Here are are a few safety tips to remember:

• Always use the proper type of fuse and fuse rating to protect a circuit.
• Look for and correct overloaded circuits.
• Since heat can lead to fire, never cover extension cords with rugs or carpeting.
• Never place weight on top of any extension cord or allow the cord to be stepped on. Crushing extension cords causes wires and wire housing to break down.
• Outlets near any water should always be GFCI-type outlets.
• Outlets in the kitchen, bathroom, laundry room, or anywhere outside should always be GFCI-type outlets.
• Stay out of trees, off of fences, and off of roofs which are near power lines.
• Keep ladders, kites, pool cleaning poles, any any other equipment away from overhead power lines.

Electrical Panels 
Electricity enters the home through a “service control panel” which is equipped with a main breaker switch so someone can shut off all the power in an emergency. In California these panels are often located outside and on the side of the house. Additional “sub-panels” might be located inside the home.

Service control panels use either fuses or circuit breakers which are specific to the manufacturer, make, and model of that panel. Make sure the correct manufacturer’s fuses or breakers are installed for that panel. Sometimes one manufacturer’s breaker will fit into another manufacturer’s service panel, but this is a dangerous error which should be immediately corrected.

Also, never use a higher-numbered fuse (or a metallic item such as a penny) to replace a blown fuse. If your control service panel uses fuses, and your power unexpectedly goes out, then look for the broken metal strip inside the glass at the top of a blown fuse. Replace the fuse with a new one marked with the correct amperage number (15, 20, 25, 30, and so on).

If your control service control panel uses circuit breakers, and your power goes out, then reset the tripped circuit breakers from “off” to “on.”

For either blown fuses or tripped breakers, be sure to investigate why the fuse or circuit blew.

Possible causes include damaged wiring, frayed wires, overloaded outlets, or defective appliances. Check the wattage on appliance labels and never overload a circuit with high-wattage appliances. Damaged insulation or a frayed or broken wire can cause a dangerous short circuit and may result in a fire. If blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers continue, or if a frayed or broken wire is found, then contact an electrician.

Yes, control service panels can wear out. Plus, control service panels have an average expected service life of 50 years. If your control service panel has signs of physical abuse or is more than 50 years old, then you should consult with a licensed electrician to determine if it needs to be replaced.

Outlets and Extension Cords
Make sure all electrical receptacles (“outlets”) are updated to three-hole, grounded outlets. If there is ever water in the area, then there should be a GFCI or ground-fault circuit interrupter outlet. All outdoor outlets should be updated to GFCI outlets.

The length of an extension cord and its wire gauge matters. The longer the cord, and the thinner the wire, the more “resistance” (and heat) is created along the wires. In addition to being a fire hazard, too much resistance (and heat) can permanently damage motors and other electrical devices.

There should be plenty of electrical capacity to run equipment without tripping circuit breakers or blowing fuses. Always try to reduce the use of extension cords. Never place electrical cords under rugs because the rug acts as insulation which increases heat within the cord.

Use extension cords sparingly and periodically check the cords for damage or wear. Use the proper electrical cord for the job, and install safety plugs into unused outlets to prevent children from sticking metal object into the holes and getting electrocuted.

Electrical Appliances
Appliances heat up and need adequate air flow to keep within acceptable operating temperatures. Avoid enclosing appliances within a cabinet that doesn’t have proper vents or other openings, and do not store flammage materials (papers) around them.

Level appliances so they do not tip. Washers and dryers should be checked often. Their movement can put undue stress on bearings and electrical connections.

Appliances or other devices that give off a tingling shock should be turned off and unplugged. Have a qualified professional inspect and correct the problem. Shocks can be fatal. Never touch the internal electrical areas or insert any metal object into an appliance without first unplugging the appliance. Periodically inspect appliances to identify worn or cracked insulation, browned or singed connections or components, loose electrical terminals, corroded wires, defective parts and any other components that might not work correctly. Replace these damages or worn appliances or have them repaired by a qualified professional.

Electrical Heating Equipment
Portable electrical heaters are responsible for many house fires. While they are useful for heating small areas, caution must be taken when using these heating devices. Keep portable heaters away from combustibles (drapes, papers, clothing, carpeting), and make sure they cannot be tipped over.

Keep portable electric heaters in good working condition. They are not appropriate for use in bathrooms because of the risk of contact with water and possible electrocution.

Some people like to use electric blankets. Electric blankets work well if they are kept in good condition. Inspect them for cracks or breaks in the wiring, as well as the plugs and connectors. Look for charred spots on both sides. Many things can cause electric blankets to overheat, especially if other bedding is placed on top, or pets are sleeping on top of them, and putting things on top of the blanket when it is in use. Folding the blankets too tightly can bend the heating coils and cause overheating.

Children
Electricity can be especially dangerous to children. Electrical safety should be taught to children at an early age, and repeated. Safety plugs should be inserted in unused outlets when toddlers are in the home. Make sure all outlets in the home have face plates so there are no visible wires in the receptacle. Teach children not to insert objects into electrical outlets and not to chew on electrical cords. Keep electrical wiring boxes locked. Never allow children be up in trees or on top of fences or roofs which are near outside power lines, utility poles, or high tension towers.

Electricity and Water

Electrical shocks can be fatal, and the human body is dangerously efficient at passing electrical current from the source to the ground, like a lightning rod. This is especially true when standing in water or on a damp floor.

Never use any electrical appliance in the tub or shower. Never touch an electrical switch, cord, or appliance with wet hands. Do not use electrical appliances in damp areas or while standing on damp floors. In areas where water is present, make sure GFCI outlets are installed and used.

Animal Hazards
Rats, mice, and other animals can chew on electrical wires and cause damage. If rodents are suspected or known to be in the home, be aware of the damage they may cause, and take measures to get rid of them. Always keep electrical service panels securely closed, and determine if data, low voltage, and AC electrical wiring should be run in appropriate conduit to protect against damage caused by rodents.

Outside Hazards
People have been electrocuted when an object they are moving has come in contact with the overhead power lines, or they are digging and strike underground power lines.

Keep ladders, antennae, kites and poles (especially pool cleaning poles) away from power lines. Do not plant trees, shrubs or bushes under power lines or near underground power lines.

Never build an in-ground or above-ground swimming pool or place any other structure under a power line. Prior to digging, identify the location of underground power lines by calling 811.

Do not climb power poles or transmission towers. Never let anyone shoot or throw stones at insulators. If you have an animal trapped in a tree or on the roof near electric lines, then call your utility company.

Be aware of weather conditions when installing or working with electrical appliances. Never use electrical power tools or appliances with rain overhead or water underfoot.

Use only outdoor lights, fixtures and outside rated extension cords. Plug into GFCI outlets.

Downed power lines are extremely dangerous and can electrify their surroundings without you seeing any sparks or other evidence of the danger. If you see a downed power line, the electric company and 911, and warn others to stay away. If a power line hits your car while you are in it, stay inside unless the car catches fire. If the car catches fire, jump clear without touching the car’s metal and the ground at the same time.

MORE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS :

• Regularly inspect your electrical appliances and wiring, especially if the appliance has any moving parts.
• Always hire a home inspector who is a member of California Real Estate Inspectors Association (CREIA). CREIA home inspectors must undergo extensive safety training and must successfully pass proctored testing to demonstrate their knowledgeable. (The other home inspection associations let you do tests online without anyone watching, so cheating is possible).
• Crushed or frayed wires can cause fires. Immediately replace all worn, old and damaged appliance cords.
• Use properly sized electrical extension cords and never overload them.
• Avoid using electrical appliances around wet floors and wet counters. Give extra care to using electrical appliances in the kitchen and bathrooms.
• Children should never be allowed to play with or around electrical appliances, including portable heaters, curling irons, clothing irons, and hair dryers.
• Keep papers, clothing, curtains, carpeting, and other combustible items at least 3 feet from all heaters and heat sources.
• If an appliance has a three-prong plug, use it only in a three-slot outlet. Never modify a 3-prong plug and force it to fit into a two-slot outlet or extension cord.
• Never overload extension cords or wall sockets. Immediately shut off and have a qualified professional replace any light switches that feel hot to the touch, or any lights that flicker. Childproof outlets (electrical receptacles) by using safety enclosures or safety plugs.
• Regularly check your electrical tools and their cords for signs of damage or wear. If the cords are damaged, cracked, or frayed, then replace them. Any tool that causes even the smallest electrical shock, overheats, shorts out, or gives off smoke or sparks should be immediately unplugged and replaced.

SacPro Home Inspections is your local home inspection service and a proud member of CREIA. Our home inspector professionals are pleased to inspect your home for important safety devices to keep your home safe.